Says Donini now, “The Compressor Route is an abomination that mars an otherwise nearly perfect mountain. The resulting route became known as the Compressor Route. Telluride, Colorado, 81435, United States, http://www.mountainfilm.org permission to email Cerro Torre in Patagonia, arguably the world’s most controversial mountain. Jim Donini, former president of the American Alpine Club, was a member in 1975 of the first team to repeat Maestri’s purported route up to the Col of Conquest. Email The controversy in the alpine climbing community surrounding Cerro Torre started back in the ‘golden age’ of mountaineering first ascents, when Italian Cesare Maestri and two companions tackled the extremely difficult south face in 1959. Cerro Torre as seen from the west. Ermanno Salvaterra, who in 2005, with Garibotti and a third partner, finally made the first ascent of Maestri’s alleged 1959 route on the north face of Cerro Torre, said, “What [Kruk and Kennedy] have done is so special, for they have shown the world that that line was actually climbable in a [clean] way, even in 1970.” But he added, “Personally I would have wanted to do something similar [to chopping the bolts], but at first I would have discussed that with Cesare Maestri.”. The expansion bolts, placed by Cesare Maestri on 1970, do not exist anymore: no more existing is what Rolo Garibotti on his site called with contempt “Via Ferrata”, as if after Maestri’s route the Cerro Torre had become a mountain, reachable by any Sunday climber. Privacy Policy. I think they’re assholes for [chopping the route].” Gregory Crouch, author of Enduring Patagonia, describes the Compressor Route as “spectacular climbing, with plenty of superb mixed terrain, not just some 5,000-foot bolt ladder.” Crouch’s reaction to the news was “not anger per se, but disappointment, even hurt.” The Compressor Route was indeed, as Crouch put it, a “monument to the folly of man.” But Kruk and Kennedy “decided to choose for everybody else. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia. David Lama (Nepali: डेभिड लामा; 4 August 1990 – 16 April 2019) was an Austrian sport climber and mountaineer.He won the European Championship in bouldering in 2007 and the European Championship in lead climbing in 2006. As Kennedy and Kruk rappelled the route, they chopped some 125 of Maestri’s bolts from the headwall and from one of the pitches below it. Molti consideravano il suo stile aggressivo una vera e propria calamità. The duo set out to do what many deemed impossible: free climb a route on Cerro Torre’s southeast face. Kennedy and a climbing Saddam Hussein i.e. Maestri stopped only a hundred feet short of the summit, as a gigantic mushroom of rotten rime ice loomed above him, but still claimed the second ascent. Those who know the young men well see them as anything but the arrogant poseurs their detractors have vilified. Maestri’s “act of vandalism,” he claimed, had “diminished the challenge and appeal the mountain originally and naturally presented.” By removing the bolt ladder, Garibotti felt, Kruk and Kennedy had done much “to restore the grandeur that Cerro Torre always had.” Cheers erupted across cyberspace, echoing Garibotti’s praise. Cesare Maestri, Legendary and Divisive Italian Climber, Dies at 91. Their deed took place on a savagely steep needle of granite and rime ice in southern Patagonia called Cerro Torre. On top, we said, ‘Gee, we did it . One called the two young men “climbing Ghadhafi i.e. With a large team, he took on the southeast ridge. We had no guarantees up there; in fact, I had been shut down just forty meters from the top last year. They’re so damn young and so damn talented. We left Niponino at 2:30 am on Jan. 5 and hiked up the glacier below Cerro Torre's South Face to the base of the Marsigny-Parkin route (aka "A la Recherche Des Temps Perdues"). Vrchol je nejvyšším ze skupiny čtyř vrcholů: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron, a Cerro Standhart. Ever since Cesare Maestri claimed to ascend Patagonia's iconic Cerro Torre in 1959 with Toni Egger and again in 1970 via his controversial Compressor Route, climbers have been obsessed with the imposingly sheer peak. Una cima leggendaria e meravigliosa nel suo slancio verticale che la porta a toccare i 3133 metri sul livello del mare. Now that this ridiculous via ferrata has been removed, an ascent of Cerro Torre will have meaning once more. Please be respectful of copyright. Address, State/Province On the border of Chile and Argentina, the peak soars nearly 5,000 feet from base to summit. Jean-Pierre Banville, editor of the influential French journal Grimper, wondered whether Kruk and Kennedy had been seduced by the “illusion of their own importance.” He added, “These excellent climbers have deliberately destroyed a historic route that was a landmark of alpinism. The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route. Garibotti, their most unequivocal supporter, said that he was “impressed beyond words” by the chopping of the route. Der Cerro Torre (spanisch: ‚Turm-Berg‘) ist ein 3128 Meter, nach anderen Quellen 3133 Meter hoher Granitberg, der sich im Nationalpark Los Glaciares am Rande zum Campo de Hielo Sur an der argentinisch-chilenischen Grenze befindet. Emails are serviced by MailChimp. Ci sembra un intervento molto interessante, considerando anche il risalto dato dai quotidiani nazionali a questa nuova salita e alla rinnovata discussione sulla via Maestri-Egger del 1959. In 1959, Cesare Maestri attempted to climb Cerro Torre via it's North Face. Who, some wondered, were these young punk North Americans to erase a historical route and determine what was right for the rest of the climbing world? Need something you don’t see here? Italian climbing legend Cesare Maestri has spent nearly half a century refuting those who dispute his 1959 ascent of Patagonia's 10,262-foot Cerro Torre, and he's getting tired of it. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. Cerro Torre fueled the search for glory and recognition of climbers from the European continent who tried to leave their mark on the summit. “Maestri’s actions were a complete atrocity,” wrote Kruk. I’m not sure that’s a wise thing to have done.”, The reaction abroad was equally vituperative. And in January of this year, they made their lightning strike on the Compressor Route. . Fields marked * are required. Over two seasons he used a petrol-driven air compressor, weighing approximately 135 kg (300 pounds) to drill bolts into the rock, some 400 in all, and thousands of metres of fixed ropes. 2013 Austria / Unauthorized use is prohibited. [Photo] Marc-Andre Leclerc. Arrivò in cima piantando 360 chiodi nella montagna sul suo percorso (la Via del Compressore). To talk about the bolt removal beforehand or during the climb was in our minds calling our ascent a guarantee. He wanted to remove them so that people coming after him would have not been able to climb the route.” But his partners, fearing bad weather, demanded an immediate retreat. During the four decades since Maestri put up the Compressor Route, scores of climbers have repeated the climb, relying on the bolt ladders. Maestri, by installing the bolts, or us, by removing them?”. Did ancient primates walk alongside T. rex? But on the descent, an avalanche had caught Egger in mid-rappel and swept both him and the climbing rope off the mountain. It was directed by Thomas Ulrich in 2002. Fu aperta nel 1970 da una spedizione guidata dal trentino Cesare Maestri, il celebre “ragno delle Dolomiti”.. La via prende il nome dal compressore che Maestri utilizzò per bucare la parete del Cerro Torre e attrezzarla con 360 chiodi a … In 1959, Maestri claimed to have made the first ascent of the 10,262 ft Cerro Torre in the mountains of southern Patagonia over six days via a route up its fiercely forbidding granite east wall. Conrad Anker, the legendary American mountaineer and North Face spokesman, who has climbed Cerro Torre, chimed in on Supertopo: “Hayden and Jason have given the mountain some of its strength back . Ever since Cesare Maestri claimed to ascend Patagonia's iconic Cerro Torre in 1959 with Toni Egger and again in 1970 via his controversial Compressor Route, climbers have been obsessed with … Box Now what about those bolts?’ ”. Cerro Torre is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America.It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile, west of Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén). On the 15th, they reached the Col of Patience halfway up the mountain (the name itself a pointed rejoinder to Maestri’s Col of Conquest on the north face). Tutte queste imprese furono realizzate in solitaria. U.S. fracking is driving it. How had Maestri and Egger climbed so skillfully, especially given the horrendous weather? But our decision to go through with it was in fact made on the summit, where we discussed it for 30 or 45 minutes. People have been talking about removing Maestri’s bolts since the day they were put in, over forty years ago. C esare Maestri, "the Spider of the ... His claim of the first ascent of Cerro Torre, with the brilliant ice specialist Tony Egger, in 1959 (via a route that has yet to be repeated), created an international polemic that he "answered" with a return to the mountain in 1970. In a single day, they effectively demolished the Compressor Route. Einer der größten Alpinskandale spielte sich 1959 am Cerro Torre ab und endete als die große tragische Lebenslüge des Cesare Maestri. Check out our festival pages or world tour. It's currently winter in Patagonia. Scientists spot a 'space hurricane' for the first time, Video Story, How the pandemic created two wildly different ski seasons in the Alps, Video Story, Copyright © 1996-2015 National Geographic Society, Copyright © 2015-2021 National Geographic Partners, LLC. The most famous questions surrounding his life have to do with a certain tower in Patagonia—Cerro Torre—and his expeditions to its walls in 1959 and 1970, though there was much more to the career of the man known as the "Spider of the Dolomites." Pubblichiamo l'intervento di Ermanno Salvaterra nel nostro Forum, dopo la sua ultima salita al Cerro Torre insieme a Rolando Garibotti e Alessandro Beltrami. Colin Haley, who watched the climb from the base of the mountain, later weighed in: “The Compressor Route was THE biggest mistake in the entire history of climbing, and it was committed on the world’s most beautiful mountain. The Kruk-Kennedy statement only unleashed a new spate of online controversy and further polarized the responders. Cerro Torre je hora ležící na území Národního parku Los Glaciares a Národního parku Bernardo O'higgins v Patagonii v blízkosti vsi El Chaltén v Argentině.Hora leží v sektoru, který je vymezen na hranici mezi Argentinou a Chile dle dohody z roku 1998. But then the critics began to emerge. What if the world’s biggest customer went green? 1956 - Via Micheluzzi del Piz Ciavazes; Cerro Torre. The greatest Italian climber of his day, Walter Bonatti, failed on an attempt less than halfway to the summit in 1958. Capping an already successful season in Patagonia, 22-year-old Marc-Andre Leclerc, from Squamish BC, raised the bar yet again by making the first solo (sometimes using a self belay) ascent of Cerro Torre's Corkscrew route (5.10d A1 90 degrees, 4,000'). De vermeende eerstbeklimming van de Cerro Torre in Argentinië is een van de grootste twistpunten in de geschiedenis van het alpiene klimmen. The mountain is Cerro Torre, and the central character in its story is an Italian climber called Cesare Maestri, now in his 80s, who claimed its first ascent in 1959, then returned in 1970 for a second go in extraordinary circumstances. Use one of the following services to share this content with your friends. El seu principal competidor i futur rival, Walter Bonatti, fracassa a la seva primera temptativa d'ascensió del Cerro Torre l'any 1958. Although it rises to an altitude of only 10,262 feet, Cerro Torre has been called the most beautiful mountain on earth, as well as one of the most difficult. After three days, gusts of warm air melted the ice near the top of the mountain and set loose colossal avalanches. Privacy Policy for details.) Before heading down, Maestri did chop the last twenty bolts below the compressor—a final “up yours” to his critics and rivals. “His use of bolts and heavy machinery was outrageous, even for the time. The actors in the drama were two of the best young alpinists alive—a 21-year-old Coloradan, Hayden Kennedy, and a 24-year-old from British Columbia, Jason Kruk. As equipment, techniques, experience, and mental outlook all improved, it became necessary to equalize the con­ test in order to preserve the element of uncertainty. Cerro Torre is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America.It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile, west of Cerro Chalten (also known as Fitz Roy).The peak is the highest in a four mountain chain: the other peaks are Torre Egger (2,685 m), Punta Herron, and Cerro Stanhardt. Una leggenda che il più grande alpinista trentino di tutti i tempi, il più grande al mondo negli anni '50, porta in sé con una infinita tristezza. Sinds de catastrofe van 1959, toen Cesare Maestri beweerde met Toni Egger de top te hebben bereikt voordat een lawine zijn kameraad meesleurde in de dood, wordt er gespeculeerd of die bewering op waarheid berust of een verzinsel is. The peak has become widely popular and is in much limelight due to its controversial history. Mountainfilm's sponsors choose to partner with us for more than just return on investment considerations; they strongly believe in Mountainfilm's mission to use the power of film, art and ideas to inspire audiences to create a better world. Maestri went back to Cerro Torre in 1970 with Ezio Alimonta, Daniele Angeli, Claudio Baldessarri, Carlo Claus and Pietro Vidi, trying a new route on the southeast face. Battle to control America’s ‘most destructive’ species: feral pigs, Starling murmurations are dazzling, ubiquitous, and puzzling. When Fava found him, he was barely conscious. According to top American climber Cedar Wright, who was there, “When asked what he thought about the ascent, Messner was very excited about it and endorsed the chopping of the route with a big smile and two thumbs up.” In 1971, outraged by the Compressor Route, Messner had published a polemic called “The Murder of the Impossible.” It remains one of the most influential declarations of mountaineering ethics ever written. Il Cerro Torre https://www.climbing.com/news/cerro-torre-the-lie-and-the-desecration Pierre and MiquelonSudanSurinameSvalbard and Jan Mayen IslandsSwazilandSwedenSwitzerlandSyriaTaiwanTajikistanTanzaniaThailandTimor-LesteTogoTokelauTongaTrinidad and TobagoTunisiaTurkeyTurkmenistanTurks & Caicos IslandsTurks and Caicos IslandsTuvaluUgandaUkraineUnited Arab EmiratesUnited KingdomUruguayUSA Minor Outlying IslandsUzbekistanVanuatuVatican City State (Holy See)VenezuelaVietnamVirgin Islands (British)Virgin Islands (U.S.)Wallis and Futuna IslandsWestern SaharaYemenZambiaZimbabwe. Duration: 98 mins, Email It was Cesare Maestri and Carlos Mauri who, separately, led expeditions to the Patagonian massif in 1957. By submitting this form, you are granting: Mountainfilm, P.O. Ed è la montagna che ha dimostrato che Cesare Maestri non è mai salito sul Cerro Torre nel 1959“. But just above Camp 3, he lost his grasp and fell. Lionel Terray called the first ascent of Cerro Torre “the greatest climbing feat of all time.” But doubts soon emerged. Whatever the ultimate fallout in this latest chapter in mountaineering history, it’s clear that the magnitude and fervor of the reaction to their bolt-chopping extravaganza stunned Kruk and Kennedy. Maestri and Egger prepared an attack on the summit. China’s exotic farms may be a missing link behind the pandemic’s leap to people, Both African elephant species are now endangered, one critically, Why a new jaguar sighting near the Arizona-Mexico border gives experts hope. Per dimostrare le sue capacità, Maestri tornò sul Cerro Torre nel 1970, questa volta in compagnia di un compressore a gas. Salvaterra, who knows Maestri well, adds a beguiling footnote to the controversy. And in recent years, some of the best young mountaineers in the world have tried to climb the southeast ridge by “fair means,” without placing new bolts or using Maestri’s. Cesare Maestri partecipò alla spedizione dei trentini, guidata da Bruno Detassis, nell’estate australe del 1957-58. Or does it plumb the anarchic core of the age-old quest for distant summits, which decrees that nobody can tell anyone else what to do in the mountains? Contact us. Gregory Crouch comments, “People would go crazy if a group of Italians chopped the bolt ladder at the top of the Nose on El Cap. In all likelihood, then, the true first ascent came in 1974, when a four-man Italian team led by Casimiro Ferrari succeeded on the west face, the route first tried by Bonatti in 1958. In December 2011, Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk arrived on the scene. His climbing companions were his fellow Italian, Cesarino Fava, and the Austrian Toni Egger, one of the outstanding ice climbers of his day. Bruno Detassis, who led the expedition, said at the time that Cerro Torre was too risky to be climbed. . Maestri’s bizarre stunt backfired. Via MAESTRI. Il Cerro Torre è una cima situata in Argentina e più precisamente in Patagonia, l’estrema porzione meridionale del continente americano. With Egger, Maestri claimed, had gone the men’s camera, carrying the only documentary proof of the men’s landmark ascent. Patagonia’s Cerro Torre has been called the world’s most beautiful mountain. On the popular climbing website Supertopo.com, Garibotti, an Argentine climber who has made as many major first ascents in the Fitz Roy massif as anyone, started a thread; in only five days, it had generated more than 1,200 responses, though still without a word from Kruk or Kennedy. Read our follow up on David Lama’s simultaneous first true free climb of Cerro Torre’s southeast ridge. At first, the responders lauded the young climbers’ deed, congratulating them on restoring the mountain to something like its original state. The sheer steepness of the final stretch above the Col of Conquest made the wall look unclimbable, even by the finest mountaineers of the day. AstraZeneca’s vaccine has 76 percent efficacy—slightly lower than the interim results announced Monday, AstraZeneca releases new data showing its COVID-19 vaccine is 76 percent effective, Scientists spot a 'space hurricane' for the first time, Eruption in Iceland may mark the start of decades of volcanic activity, How the pandemic created two wildly different ski seasons in the Alps, Buried by Vesuvius, this ancient villa is an overlooked alternative to Pompeii, Once a state secret, these Albanian bunkers are now museums, A return to travel—and the world outside your airplane window, These eye-opening field trips can spark kids’ curiosity, Here are 10 places to discover Detroit’s storied Black history. Here are a few interesting facts about Cerro Torre worth knowing: image: petzl.com. . To many, the feat was unimaginable, and the peak shut down the climbers more than once. Later, he dismissed that mushroom as “not really part of the mountain,” because “it’ll blow away one of these days.” Leaving the compressor bolted to the wall as a taunt to his critics and to the climbing community at large, he rappelled the route. – Select one –United States of AmericaAaland IslandsAfghanistanAlbaniaAlgeriaAmerican SamoaAndorraAngolaAnguillaAntarcticaAntigua And BarbudaArgentinaArmeniaArubaAustraliaAustriaAzerbaijanBahamasBahrainBangladeshBarbadosBelarusBelgiumBelizeBeninBermudaBhutanBoliviaBonaire, Saint Eustatius and SabaBosnia and HerzegovinaBotswanaBouvet IslandBrazilBritish Indian Ocean TerritoryBrunei DarussalamBulgariaBurkina FasoBurundiCambodiaCameroonCanadaCape VerdeCayman IslandsCentral African RepublicChadChileChinaChristmas IslandCocos (Keeling) IslandsColombiaComorosCongoCook IslandsCosta RicaCote D'IvoireCroatiaCubaCuracaoCyprusCzech RepublicDemocratic Republic of the CongoDenmarkDjiboutiDominicaDominican RepublicEcuadorEgyptEl SalvadorEquatorial GuineaEritreaEstoniaEthiopiaFalkland IslandsFaroe IslandsFijiFinlandFranceFrench GuianaFrench PolynesiaFrench Southern TerritoriesGabonGambiaGeorgiaGermanyGhanaGibraltarGreeceGreenlandGrenadaGuadeloupeGuamGuatemalaGuernseyGuineaGuinea-BissauGuyanaHaitiHeard and Mc Donald IslandsHondurasHong KongHungaryIcelandIndiaIndonesiaIranIraqIrelandIsle of ManIsraelItalyJamaicaJapanJersey (Channel Islands)JordanKazakhstanKenyaKiribatiKuwaitKyrgyzstanLao People's Democratic RepublicLatviaLebanonLesothoLiberiaLibyaLiechtensteinLithuaniaLuxembourgMacauMacedoniaMadagascarMalawiMalaysiaMaldivesMaliMaltaMarshall IslandsMartiniqueMauritaniaMauritiusMayotteMexicoMicronesia, Federated States ofMoldova, Republic ofMonacoMongoliaMontenegroMontserratMoroccoMozambiqueMyanmarNamibiaNauruNepalNetherlandsNetherlands AntillesNew CaledoniaNew ZealandNicaraguaNigerNigeriaNiueNorfolk IslandNorth KoreaNorthern Mariana IslandsNorwayOmanPakistanPalauPalestinePanamaPapua New GuineaParaguayPeruPhilippinesPitcairnPolandPortugalPuerto RicoQatarRepublic of KosovoReunionRomaniaRussiaRwandaSaint Kitts and NevisSaint LuciaSaint MartinSaint Vincent and the GrenadinesSamoa (Independent)San MarinoSao Tome and PrincipeSaudi ArabiaSenegalSerbiaSeychellesSierra LeoneSingaporeSint MaartenSlovakiaSloveniaSolomon IslandsSomaliaSouth AfricaSouth Georgia and the South Sandwich IslandsSouth KoreaSouth SudanSpainSri LankaSt. Cerro Torre is one of this planet’s truly singular peaks and believing a climber’s account speaks to the heart of alpinism. 2/21/07 - Americans Zack Smith and Josh Wharton made a bold attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre in Patagonia without using the protection bolts that were power-drilled by Cesare Maestri during his 1970 attempt on the granite needle. Even worse, he used a gas-powered air compressor—a device never before employed in the mountains—to drill no fewer than 400 bolts into the route, many of them on the dead vertical headwall, effectively engineering a series of bolt ladders up the beautiful granite spire. We climbed Cerro Torre via a linkup of the “Tiempos Perdidos” route on the left margin of the south face and the Ragni route on the west face (this was the first integral ascent of “Tiempos Perdidos”). Cesare Maestri è di nuovo sui graniti del Cerro Torre. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Then in 1959, Bonatti’s bitter rival, Cesare Maestri, came to Patagonia to slay the dragon via its north face. 1. It was Cesare Maestri and Carlos Mauri who, separately, led expeditions to the Patagonian massif in 1957. HelenaSt. Its tone was unrepentant, even defiant. The peak is the highest of a four mountain chain: the other peaks are Torre Egger (2,685 m (8,809 ft)), Punta Herron, and Cerro Standhardt. Europe’s plastics industry is about to boom. 1 of 3 Colin Haley is renown for putting up a new route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre, one of the most difficult mountains in the world. Cerro Torre with the Compressor face on its right and rime ice cap on the top. You may unsubscribe via the link found at the bottom of every email. Over the past four decades, Cesare Maestri's claimed ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959 with Toni Egger has been widely discredited (*). Instead of climbing in conventional alpine style, Maestri fixed thousands of feet of rope. Leclerc on the summit of Cerro Torre after completing the first solo ascent of the Corkscrew route. Cesare Maestri, one of the most legendary figures in climbing history, died January 19 at age 91. Today, Maestri’s 1959 “ascent” of Cerro Torre is widely regarded as one of the most blatant hoaxes in mountaineering history. After three bivouacs above the Col of Conquest, he and Egger had reached the summit of the mountain that Terray deemed impossible. New evidence backs up theory. Does Kruk and Kennedy’s feat present the next generation with a shining example of purist style in homage to a formidable objective? Back in Italy, Maestri recuperated fully and boasted about his amazing climb. The “Compressor Route,” as it is known today, only reinforced his skeptics’ suspicions that the 1959 “first ascent” was an outright hoax. [Photo] Rolando Garibotti [This story was first published on pataclimb.com on February 2, 2015.—Ed.]. In a separate interview with National Geographic Online, Kruk elaborated on the decision to chop the bolts: “In El Chalten over many seasons and cocktail hours with many climbers, we had talked about the pros and cons of bolt chopping. This time, I held my breath till the top. Vies MASSAPASMA, SOMRIURE VERTICAL, NUPINENES Les Courtes. A locust plague hit East Africa. “Having climbed Cerro Torre in 1994 via the Maestri Via Ferrata I am more than happy that I reached the summit again by fair means climbing one of the most outstanding routes of the massive!” The Ragni is the most beautiful line I ever climbed and should be on the wish list of each climber. At first, the climbing world accepted Maestri’s account and showered the exploit with accolades. Maestri had an extraordinary story to tell. Patagonia’s Cerro Torre has been called the world’s most beautiful mountain. Der Cerro Torre in Patagonien ist ein einmaliger Berg, wild, haltlos steil, eher ein Kunstwerk denn einfach ein Gipfel. Che Messner non sia un mostro di simpatia ci sta. We begin our trek by traveling west through beautiful beech forests above Rio Fitzroy to Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre. Curiously, Maestri himself, alive and compos mentis at the age of 82 in his home in the village of Madonna di Campiglio, has yet to comment on the new controversy. The Southeast Ridge was attainable by fair means in the 70s, he stole that climb from the future.” Rhetorically, he added, “Who committed the act of violence against Cerro Torre? Fava settled in to wait. Sulla vicenda del Cerro Torre e della via “Egger-Maestri” del 1959 che, com'è noto anche recentemente è stata messa in dubbio, riceviamo, e volentieri pubblichiamo, un comunicato ufficiale di Cesare Maestri e una dichiarazione di Cesarino Fava che faceva parte di quella spedizione. He is known for his first free ascent of the Compressor Route (South-East Ridge) on Cerro Torre. It will take its rightful place as one of the world’s most inaccessible summits. Cerro Torre. On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. Reinhold messner duikt diep in de geschiedenis van de Cerro Torre: de 'onbereikbare berg', de meest spectaculaire piek in Patagonië. . Non la vogliono capire - Cerro Torre is a documentary about alpinism that takes place in Cerro Torre. . An abundance of evidence has shown that their high point was only a quarter of the way up, 300 meters, near the so-called "triangular snowfield." 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La via del compressore (detta anche via Maestri o Compressor route) fu ripercorsa nel 1979 dall'americano Jim Bridwell che riscontrò che i chiodi lasciati dalla spedizione del 1970 s'interrompono a 30 metri dal fungo terminale. Controversy over Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Zelfs door de berg in 1970 opnieuw te beklimmen, deze keer met een compressor, boorhaken en via een andere route, kon Maestri de beschuldiging gelogen te hebben niet weerleggen.Reinhold Messner, die de Cerro Torre vaak heeft bestudeerd maar nooit zelf op de top heeft gestaan, brengt met groot inlevingsvermogen licht in de duisternis. ©2021 Mountainfilm - All Rights Reserved. I don’t see the moral difference between what just happened on Cerro Torre and that hypothetical event.”, * * *At last, on January 26, Kruk and Kennedy emerged from their silence, issuing a statement written by Kruk. (See our Email Sinds de catastrofe van 1959, toen Cesare Maestri beweerde met Toni Egger de top te hebben bereikt voordat een lawine zijn kameraad meesleurde in de dood, wordt er gespeculeerd of die bewering op waarheid berust of een verzinsel is. . “La montagna non dice bugie. Glacier Torre, Cerro Solo, and Mirador Maestri The next day we drive north to the settlement of Chalten and there meet our gaucho and the llamas that we'll use to get gear into our first camp. Maestri is best known for controversy surrounding climbs on Cerro Torre in Patagonia—his debunked claim of the first ascent of the peak in 1959, and his subsequent Compressor Route on it in 1970—but his other achievements in and around Europe make him a standout figure in world climbing.

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